Paris: The Most Culture-Driven City You'll See
Over the past few weeks, I've been immersed in a journalism fellowship program in Hamburg. But I didn't have much time to settle there, because soon after arrival I departed to join the European Data Journalism Network meeting in Paris.
I had never been there, or to France for that matter, if I don't count Strasbourg (which some of my German friends claim isn't really French - yikes).
The excitement of visiting Paris was slightly marred by my friends and colleagues bombarding me with stories about the bed bug crisis in the city. My Instagram DMs were flooded with images of bugs crawling out of metro seats, making me quite nervous.
Arriving at Gare de l’Est, I took the subway towards the Notre Dame Cathedral.
When I reached my accommodation, it was raining heavily, and I was soaked. Fortunately, the room was cozy. It was part of the owner's apartment, decorated eclectically but artistically. Framed pictures and paintings covered every wall, and small statues adorned every table. I tread carefully with my backpack, fearing I might knock something over.
I had a day to myself before the meeting, so I embarked on the usual tourist explorations. The gloomy weather meant fewer crowds, which I found advantageous. As a colleague had mentioned, one usually has to jostle for space on Parisian streets, but not that day.
I strolled across St. Michael's Bridge, past the Palais de Justice, around the Louvre, enjoying the solitude. The streets reminded me of other Western European capitals, save for the parts of Germany that were bombed. But Paris's distinct character and the stylish attire of its residents impressed me. Wandering in my decade-old shirt and worn hat, I felt almost out of place.
Reaching the Eiffel Tower, I was greeted by a perfect sky. However, I realized that such iconic landmarks lose some of their wonders when you've seen them countless times in media; they become just another picture when you see them on your own.
After walking a considerable distance, I stopped at a bar for a glass of wine. My next destination was the Arc de Triomphe, which was impressive. However, I most enjoyed meandering through the streets and boulevards, soaking in the neon lights and the city's perpetual buzz.
The cultural vibrancy of Paris is no marketing exaggeration. Nearly every other street window revealed a gallery, a vintage bookstore, or a design fashion store, all active even after dark with receptions of various kinds.
While listening to the "Age Of Napoleon" podcast, I happened upon an episode about the Louvre's history just as I walked through its courtyard. However, a street saxophonist's beautiful melody in a nearby passage captivated me, and I paused to savor the moment.
Returning to my room, I checked for bed bugs (finding none), but mosquitoes disrupted my night. The room's old wooden windows didn't close properly, allowing mosquitoes to enter. I spent the night swatting them, eventually resorting to sleeping with a T-shirt wrapped around my head and earplugs to block out their buzzing. Despite my efforts, I woke up with mosquito bites, including one on my eyelid, making me look, as if I suffered from the elephant disease at the meeting.
The next day, I observed Paris awakening – bikers rushing by, businesspeople heading out, and city workers finishing their cleanup.
Our meeting at the Alternative Economiques newsroom was inspiring, and I felt like I was finally "playing with the big boys." The office had a classic, old-school magazine vibe, with books and a 90s-style decor.
After a fulfilling evening at a bar, I walked home, reflecting on Paris's resilience against negative media portrayals. The city was far more lively and atmospheric than expected, a pleasant surprise given my initial low expectations.
I walked out of my apartment early in the morning after killing a total of 6 mosquitoes. I managed to stop for breakfast at a café on my way to Alternative Économiques. I felt I just had the most French morning possible. The interior was quite old-school in a good way, and besides me, there was only one other customer: a man sipping coffee, listening to music with wired iPhone earphones, and reading Le Parisien.
We spent the day meeting various research labs such as the Paris School of Economics, the World Inequality Lab, and the European Tax Observatory.
Traveling extensively has made me fearless in new cities, allowing me to feel at home quickly. My last morning in Paris, after battling six mosquitoes, was quintessentially French – breakfast at an old-school café with only another patron for company.
Our day involved visiting various research labs, including the Paris School of Economics and the World Inequality Lab.
I had to leave to catch my train back to Hamburg. It happened to be one of the worst train rides in my life. Even though I paid for 1st class, 12 hours was just too much for me. And the worst part was the lights stayed on throughout the whole night, making it tough to sleep. I ended up finding a spot on a bench in the restaurant car, where I could lie down at least for an hour. I was happy to finally get to Hamburg that day and recharge.