Crowd said Heróyam Sláva! after Zelensky's Speech. Chills overwhelmed my Body

When my colleague asked me whether I want to travel to Kyiv I immediately responded yes. Two days later, we were on board the plane belonging to the Slovak government. 

Roses and Ukrainian flags at Majdan square in Kyiv.

Since the Russian war against Ukraine started over a year ago, I felt really bad I am not there reporting. I think this emotion has several sources. For one, I simply felt that all the reporting I did at home was less important than what war reporters were doing and I simply wanted to do something that could help the Ukrainian people fight the enemy - for which the mobilization of the global public through photography is crucial. The other motivation was probably a bit selfish. I work as a journalist partly because I like to watch history from the front row and I am super curious.

And even know I feel that I probably cannot bring home better war photographs than the guys from New York Times capturing frames in the front line, I wanted to be there. Traveling with the delegation of Slovak prime minister Eduard Heger and the minister of defense Jaroslav Naď was the best way to dip my toes into the situation, as it’s probably the safest way to travel to a war country. I still don’t have experience with war reporting and my colleagues that champion this discipline will probably still hesitate to bring me on board for the real deal, but I have gained some confidence to build on. 

We boarded the plane in Bratislava on Thursday morning and then spent a day in Košice waiting for the PM to run his errands. Even though Košice is my hometown, I didn’t go home and spent my day in cafes instead. I didn’t want my mom to know where I am traveling, so she wouldn’t worry. We’ve gone through security at the Košice airport, some with bags full of beer, and boarded the plane flying to Rzeszów, Poland. After a super short flight, we regrouped into vans and small buses and headed to the train station in Przemyśl. This was the first time in my life I traveled in a column chaperoned by cop cars. 

Eduard Heger and Jaroslav Naď on the Slovak governmental plane.

Slovak plane and a special car column at the Rzeszów airport.

The train was prepared just for the Croatian and Slovenian government officials and us. It was a sleeping train that could host four people per coupe and with all the cameras and bags it was pretty packed in there. We photographed the politicians on the train but had big problems getting our images and story to our editors. My phone provider didn’t have a Ukraine internet data package so we had to rely on our good colleagues from a competition newspaper, whom we have truly befriended. They were nice enough to share their unlimited internet package, but in the middle of nowhere, there was no service. I had to wake up from sleep at about 1.30 am to upload images because our train stopped in Lviv and I finally caught some connection. 

Train station in Przemyśl, Poland.

The night was fine, even though it was really warm. I couldn’t wait to get to Kyiv. We received two delicious pancakes for breakfast and coffee and got out on the platform to board our vans again. I snapped a pic of our PM and ran to the press group. We still couldn’t run our stories live, as the information was embargoed and we were supposed to publish flash news about every event with an hourly delay for safety reasons. We found later, that these rules have been broken by the same delegation which set them - the government employees have posted images from the station live on their social media. 

Heger in Kyiv.

This was my first time in Kyiv and even though it wasn’t on the front line, I still thought it was a unique experience to visit it during the war. Posters supporting the troops were all around the city, as one of the few signs was in a country currently aggressively invaded by an enemy state. We’ve gone out of the van at Mykhailivska Square where we had the chance to observe destroyed Russian war equipment and the sandbagged Monument of Princess Olga, the regent of the Kievan Rus from the 10th century. A Slovak Colonel who came along with a cigar in his mouth gave us a tour explaining, how the Russian soldiers cooked alive in some of these machines. Honestly, what a strange moment that was. 

Monument of Princess Olga.

From here we were supposed to head to the representative residence of president Volodymyr Zelensky, but since this trip suffered from a large amount of disorganization and chaos, we were told we should just head straight to Bucha. 

Russian troops left the town exactly a year ago. Bucha became the symbol of Russian brutality, because they executed, tortured, and raped hundreds of civilians there. For them, a remembrance ceremony was held and Zelenskyj, our PM, and the representatives of Moldova, Croatia, and Slovenia presented their speeches. Soldiers and citizens received their state honors. 

We drove through Hostomel, the sight of a large battle at the beginning of the war when Russians still thought they could capture Kyiv. We saw bunkers ready to be swarmed by the defending soldiers, destroyed buildings, and still, strangely normal life lived around this mess. When we arrived in Bucha, we were far from the first ones there. Tens of journalists were already lined up with their cameras and we struggled to catch a spot. I ended up shooting the event with a camera above my head, constantly banging my lens into a poor fella operating a TV camera in front of me. 

Soldiers raising Ukrainian flag at a Heroes of Bucha Memorial.

Eduard Heger and Volodymyr Zelensky.

Volodymyr Zelensky honoured a fallen hero of the Russian war against Ukraine.

Zelensky spoke in his movie star voice, ending his speech with “Slava Ukraini!”, to which the whole crowd responded in unison “Heróyam Sláva!”. I will never forget the goosebumps which covered my body at this moment. 

I will also never forget the speech of our PM which was totally unprepared, improvised, and which included pearls like calling Ursula von der Leyen the “president of the European Union”.

Ukrainian statesmen together with prime minister Denys Shmyhal.

Presidential cars leaving Bucha.

Left in chaos after the ceremony, we convinced our driver to bring us to Yablonska street in Bucha where the worst atrocities happened. We jump out of the car and were instantly greeted by a group of small children asking us, where is Zelensky. We pointed them in the direction we came from and the kids sprinted that way screaming the war leader's name. We walked down the street, looking at people hanging their laundry on destroyed balconies. Mr. Heger said Bucha looked a lot worse last year, and they have moved forward really fast, but you could still see bulletholes in the fences and houses. Imagine visiting your grandma in her village and seeing marks of gunfire in the facade of her house, that’s exactly how it felt. 

We’ve met a local businessman who ran a construction manufacturing plant material since the seventies. He took us on a tour through his property, which was totally shattered by artillery fire “Eyes hurt, hands keep working,” said Michail in his comment on the situation.

Michail.

Coming back to Kyiv we passed a checkpoint guarding the presidential residence and upon instructions from the governmental office approached a security check because we thought we will meet our PM or someone else there for a potential interview. But they took our phones and computers for security reasons, so we couldn’t record, write or edit anything plus it turned out, our PM wasn’t showing up anyway. In total chaos, we tried to leave the Mariyinsky Palace, upon which the soldiers didn’t know, if we are shitting them, or if we were just stupid. They asked us whether we were from Slovakia or Slovenia. We hesitated to answer that question, considering whether we should throw Slovenia under the bus and leave without shame of our own. We didn’t. 

Since there was nothing else to do, we took off to discover Kyiv. My friend bought lunch and couldn’t open the package, so he used barbed wire to cut it open. Bizzare. 

Barbed wire near Mariyinsky Palace.

Kyiv city centre.

Backstreet of Kyiv.

Louis Vuitton store in Kyiv city centre.

Kyiv is a beautiful city, I want to come back and just wander the streets. It also has a good portion of hypercapitalism, which I find hilarious. For example, there is a giant shopping mall right under Majdan square, where historical events happened nine years ago. Walking around, you wouldn’t know there was war. It was Friday evening and people were ready to have fun. Pubs were lively and lovely, and cafes cozy. 

Soldiers on the street were collecting money for the army. I contributed 10 euros. 

Majdan square in Kyiv.

Cozy information stand and cafe in Kyiv.

Tiles at Majdan square.

Shopping centre at Majdan.

Sand bags on a street in central Kyiv, pubs open in the background.

Back on the train, I interviewed the PM and then chit-chatted with him for over half an hour in our coupe. He is a nice guy. I wish that was enough for state politics. 

We arrived back in Poland in the morning, after a ten-hour ride. Approaching the runway, we saw Patriot systems pointed to the sky around the Rzeszov airport, strange times. The bus drove us all the way to our plane and my colleagues jumped out with cigarettes in their mouths. I think it was against the rules. I’ve never seen a group of people more addicted to nicotine than these folks. We boarded the plane and arrived in Bratislava in no time. 

This is how cultural Heritage burns

Fire destroyed seven buildings partially or totally in the unique, UNESCO historical center of Banská Štiavnica on Saturday. I thought these extensive urban fires are just stories for the history books, and so did the locals whose cultural club, museum, art school, and property have gone up in flames. This is a reportage from those places two days after the first amber sparked from the fire source.

Eluzína, a unique cultural centre turned pitch black.

Smoke still seeping through the surfaces.

Roof beams turned to char.

A view of the burned part of downtown.

Locals trying to save what they can from a burned, water soaked building.

A damaged museum and art school.

Firemen have been called in to inspect sparks and ambers seen by locals in the building where the first flames originated from on Saturday.

A Selection of Trash Images

My colleague from Denník N and I got a chance to look into a plastic waste plant near Bratislava, where workers and machines sort disposed plastic to then recycle or sell to other processing companies. I have decided to share my view of the story through a blog as we’ve used a different selection of images for the original story run in the newspaper.

Sorted waste for recycling. What cannot be recycled or used otherwise ends up in the incinerator, from which you can only see the chimney in the background. Description source - My dear colleague Tomas Grecko.

Dump trucks bring about 30 tons of waste to the plant every day.

City residents often pollute recycle bins with contents which don’t belong there, so the workers at the plant have to pick out the unsuitable pieces.

The selection line.

A machine automatically detects the character of waste and sorts it out accordingly.

Unwanted waste found in the recycle bins.

Sorted waste.

What is not recycled is burned in a neighbouring incinerator, technically called an Energy Recovery Facility. Description source - TG.

Czech Presidential Elections: my Photoreportage

I have covered the first round of the Czech presidential elections for Deník N. My job was to report on the night's happenings at the staff venue of Danuše Nerudová and, subsequently, Peter Pavel. It was an intense day, but I enjoyed every part because the competitiveness and time pressure pumped adrenaline into my veins. Here is my edit of the story I’ve captured.

Danuše Nerudovas' speech dest: Toes on the mark, hands calm on the desk… Yeah. And you are the best <3 .

A line of journalists waiting for the arrival of Danuše Nerudová,

Nerudová steps out of her car with her family in front of Galerie Nanes in Prague.

Danuše Nerudová and Robert Neruda.

Nerudovas' interview with journalists at her venue.

Nerudova thanks her supporters.

Photographers photograph photographers.

The presidential candidate acknowledges defeat in front of the crowd of her staff and journalists.

Nerudovas' son cries while she talks.

Husband Robert Neruda hugs Nerudova.

Some of the volunteers are helping Nerudova with her campaign.

Presidential candidate Peter Pavel.

Presidential candidate and senator Pavel Fisher comes to Peter Pavels' venue after admitting defeat.

Defeated presidential candidate and the member of the Czech Senate, Marek Hilšer comes to Pavel as a sign of support.

Peter Pavel prepares for a TV interview.

Pavel during an interview in the press room.

Pavel after the interview.

A shelf at Peter Pavels' team office in Prague.

Peter Pavels' campaign manager Pavla Nýdrle.

About that Time I went to Florida and it was cold and rainy

The few days before we left were tough. The shooting of two queer people in front of a gay bar in Bratislava has shaken the emotionally sound part of the Slovak public and has transformed the political debate. This happened on Wednesday night. 

I had to wake up early on Thursday and hurry to catch a court session involving a corrupt judge Monika Jankovska. She didn't even show up. I was tired from the previous weeks, as work kept me busy, and was holding on to my vacation, starting on Friday. I was already leaving for Vienna in the evening and had the plan to catch a bus from the same building as I have scheduled my afternoon interview. 

One of our photographers took a day off, however, and so it turned out, I was set out to photograph our president lighting up candles in front of the pub Teplaren. I also photographed her later at our office and then rushed to the train station to hitch a train to Wien Houbtbahnhof. I was meeting a travel buddy there. 

We had to wake up early to catch a plane to Krakow and, subsequently, to Bergen. Thankfully my uncle drove us to the airport. We arrived in Norway at about 3 pm. My friend Šimon whom we were visiting, picked us up at the airport, and we hopped on tram number one to the city center. Allegedly there exists a line number 2 in Bergen, but I haven't seen it and continue to doubt its existence. 

Of course, it was raining, I mean, we were in Bergen. I didn't bring a raincoat or an umbrella because I thought I could just campaign against the weather. 

We arrived at our accommodation in the city center only to find out, the key safe was empty. Scared, that we got scammed, I managed to contact the landlord and get a key to a different room. The surprise was, that the key from our room and the entrance door to the whole building was the same. 

After we sorted that out, we had a couple of drinks with Šimon, who was only too eager to gobble up the whiskey we'd brought him, as alcohol in Norway is too expensive for students to buy. After that, we headed out. St. John's Church was marking the end of the main street, and seemed monumental, as it stood on a battery of stairs. We have elevated to its level and walked towards the port. 

Ever since the time I lived in Iceland, I am fascinated by the northern seas. Plus, I have written a story about the port on the Danube in Bratislava recently, so I was quite interested to see the ships. As we walked towards the Unesco world heritage marked wooden houses, a beautiful sunset found its way to crawl through clouds and reflect the colors off the water spots throughout the pavement. Once we'd walked far enough, we walked into a 10-story tall cruise ship, which made us throw up in our mouths a little bit. 

In pursuit of beer, we have settled in a student bar at the faculty of arts at the local uni. It cost us 5 euros, which was less than we expected. We each bought Šimon a beer and left for home. We were worn out. 

Our steps in the morning lead towards Ulirken, the tallest mountain out of the hills surrounding the town. We walked through a very strange route, but after passing a football field and a hospital garage, we found ourselves at the heel of the mount. Realizing the prices of the cable car weren't a joke, we've started working the steps. Nature was beautiful, although the steps were such that they visually blended together, and it took enormous mental effort, to calculate each step. 

Martinas back gave up after about three sets of stairs, so we've had to call a retreat on a mission. We returned to the city, passing beautiful fall trees and other tourists heading up Ulriken. We greeted them as if we were tryhards already returning from the summit. 

A grocery store with a retro-futuristic name REMA 1000 has lured us in, and I've bought a chocolate bar and an apple. Waiting outside for my peers, I was surprised for them to come out of the shop with a pair of guys from my hometown of Košice in Slovakia. I've grown accustomed to this happening. When I visited Berlin earlier this year, I couldn't, for the love of me, speak German, because every stranger I met started speaking Slovak back to me. 

We walked past a shipyard and a housing facility and played water foosball. It's like a regular foosball, only the table has pools of water in it, because it's in Bergen, and it friggin rains all the time. Well, it didn't rain that day, but you get the point. 

Šimon later served us something he called Mechiko and me and Martina trashed him in front of his friends for like an hour. It's always fun when other people think we are actually assholes, but we are just friends like Jerry Seinfeld, Elaine Benes, and George Costanza. It's just tough to say who is who though. The dorm where Šimon stayed was quite different from my dorm in Brno. There were about 6 rooms, each with its bathroom, connected to this commonplace with couches, a balcony, and two mirrored kitchens. It was like a large flat really. “We are like on rehab here,” spoke one of the Šimons roommates “we don't have any alcohol, because we can not afford it. We eat little, and go on a bunch of hikes all the time.”

We left the apartment and entered a common gaming room in the neighboring building. Students had access to the pool and ping-pong tables there, I thought it was quite cool. 

I spent the next hours walking around the part of town called Florida with Šimon, having a good old talk like we used to have when we hung out almost daily during our university years in Brno. I'm sad my best friend moved to Norway, but who can blame him? Social tension in Slovakia is becoming unbearable, people now regularly choose violence, and opportunities are scarce and painful to realize.  

The port in Florida was interesting, although, from the architectural standpoint, it was a bit busy. It reminded me of those Lego towns some lunatics have in their basements. 

We passed a nightclub called Backstage, built in a cave. We've managed to visit Šimons university building, which has its own swimming pool. I thought my Alma Mater in Brno was quite modern, but god damn, this was years ahead. I mean, the whole country kinda is. Norway washes its oil-dirty hands off with an inland ecological revolution. Seeing a combustion engine car is a near to rare sight, and most big car manufacturers don't even offer non-electric vehicles here anymore. 

I guess what I liked about the city was also the calmness and quietness of the streets. I have no idea how but a town with precipitation like a freaking rainforest has managed to create a cozy feeling to it. 

After the walk, I bought a 12 euro, almost one-kilo salad in the grocery store, where I could mix it myself, and went home. I've taken a nap at home, exhausted from all the walking, and edited some pictures. Soon enough, Martina and I would pick up and head to Šimons dorm for some booze action. 

The night went well, after a short while, it was just the Slovak students (out of which one was from my high school, and I knew him, because he is also a friend of my buddy Lukáš, with whom I'd traveled to Berlin). We had a great time, we brought Šimon two liquor bottles from the duty-free store. One was a whiskey, which we'd drunk that night; another one was Zubrowka. We thought it was hilarious to bring these alcohol-deprived children booze they all hated.

Drunk, but still eager to take some images, I've managed to stop by Florida and capture these long exposure images at about 2 in the morning. 

When we got to the city center, it was full of drunk Norwegians. Quite a shit show to tell you the truth. They were all trying to cram into the tram, barely letting us hop off. The clubs in the city all close at 3 am for some reason. I must admit, though, the police were there in great numbers, ready to prevent any brawl from sparking. 

Surprisingly, the morning wasn't so bad. OH WAIT, OUTSIDE THE STRANGER WHO LITERALLY WALKED INTO OUR ROOM IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT. Yeah, so remember the keys? The one from our room was the same one that fits into the front door of the building, so it turned out, everybody had everybody's keys here :). Apparently, the Norwegian owner thought it was normal, for people not to steal other people's stuff, but hello (!!!), it's typically not the Norwegians that stay at a tourist accommodation! Needless to say, we were perplexed. 

It was pouring rain in the morning, so we had to wait before leaving. We planned to get to the top of another mountain called Fløyen, this time by (a much cheaper) cable car. We have caught a glimpse of this cloud formation unusual for Bergen called the blue blue sky. It was just for a couple of minutes, but just enough to catch the view. As we proceeded to descend back into the city, I realized how amazing this place is. The path was mingled with different streams and small waterfalls. Mash-covered tree roots made you feel like you were in ancient times, looking for a game to hunt. I thought it was amazing, this was a sight to be had only 20 or 30 minutes walking from the city center. In the last quarter of our way down, it started to rain heavily. We ran into a cozy warm coffee and had to wait for a free table for at least 15 minutes. 

This was one of the last of our adventures. Our flight in the morning was set to depart at about 8, so we had to get up early. I was then very thankful that the tram ran very simply from the city center, straight to the airport. 

Nebudeme ticho!

V Košiciach sa stretlo asi 100 ľudí aby vyjadrili podporu interupčným právam žien. "V čase koronakrízy poslanci neriešia to čo by mali, ale otvárajú hodnotové otázky, ktoré sľubovali že otvárať nebudú. Predkladajú sa návrhy na sprísnenie interupcií, lenže tie interupcie neodstránia. Naopak tieto návrhy ohrozujú ženy a ich fyzické a psychické zdravie. Vnímam to ako odvádzanie pozornosti od reálnych problémov," hovorí organizátorka zhromaždenia z iniciatívy Kritické fórum, Lívia Jánošíková. 

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Lívia Jánošíková.

Lívia Jánošíková.

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Photographs of faces with no mouth. Life in Košice during the pandemic.

I decided to take a walk down the Košice city centre to document life during the corona pandemic. I’m imagining myself looking at the pictures I took yesterday in a decade, with my head shaking in disbelief, thinking, how crazy were these days.

Slovak people tend to be distant from each other, they are often seriously divided in their political standpoints and many times forget to be generous towards each other.

Only a month ago, when the parliamentary election campaign was peaking, we were yelling at each other, some people didn’t hesitate to punch a fellow citizen. We had nothing for each other but anger.

We all were so immersed in hate towards everyone around: The blacks, the whites, the roma minority, the liberals, the fascists, the social democrats.

And here we are now. Thinking what would we give to see anyone smile. Everything and anything. Everything, just so we didn’t have to guess our friends’ emotions just from their eyes. Anything just so we could simply see people we love and hang out, watch a movie, go to our favourite pub. We would give everything and anything to be able to argue about our differences which seem so stupid now, just to have a conversation face to face.

A bus driver in Košice with a face mask.

A bus driver in Košice with a face mask.

People waiting in front of the bakery, to buy pastry.

People waiting in front of the bakery, to buy pastry.

Pharmacy: Face masks and disinfectants out of stock.

Pharmacy: Face masks and disinfectants out of stock.

Winery blocking the entrance to the shop with a chair.

Winery blocking the entrance to the shop with a chair.

A public worker with a face mask.

A public worker with a face mask.

Building with a smiley face.

Building with a smiley face.

Homeless men feeding pigeons.

Homeless men feeding pigeons.

Empty street in Košice city centre.

Empty street in Košice city centre.

Closed hair studio.

Closed hair studio.

A couple in face masks walking down the street.

A couple in face masks walking down the street.

Two neighbours talking in face masks.

Two neighbours talking in face masks.

People in Košice city centre walking in face masks.

People in Košice city centre walking in face masks.

An empty street in Košice.

An empty street in Košice.

Birds feeding in Košice.

Birds feeding in Košice.